Stage 20

Villadangos del Páramo-Astorga

July 28, 1999

To Santiago 289 Kms.

(Distance  30 Kms. // Time walking 6 hours and 15 minutes)

 

When you sleep well, awakening is almost like coming back from the beyond. We quit Villadangos at half past six in the morning. Our bodies will still take a while to cast shadows. Paca and I walk a few kilometres half-asleep. Walking along the modern path, beside the road, is monotonous. I joke : « Paca, wake me up in Puente de Orbigo ! ». 

Bridge of "Paso Honroso"

Paca crosses the Bridge of Paso Honroso.

When we arrive at his village we should take a picture, we are crossing the bridge of « Paso Honroso » which was the place where old knights fought. After a while in memory of Don Suero de Quiñones, we have breakfast in Puente de Orbigo. Honest gipsies and pedlars are setting up Wednesday’s market in the village.

When we leave Hospital de Orbigo we have two choices : The first one is to follow the modern path that is parallel to the road ; the second one is to follow an old path that goes through Villares de Orbigo and Santibañez and which crosses a woodland. Paca and I choose the wooded one, as we usually do. The path is stony but exciting. When we are at the steepest and wildest part of the path I stop. « Look ! », I exclaim to Paca. We can see two pilgrims in the distance. They are the Brazilian sumo fighter and his maid. Nothing can amaze us at this time. After a while we overtake them and lose sight of them in three minutes.

  • « This man cannot walk ! »

  • « So he must know how to jump in the hyperspace », says Paca calmly.

When we arrive at San Justo de la Vega, the number of walkers has increased. We see cyclists without luggage, walkers without rucksacks and well dressed people that do not sweat and some of then wear designer knee and ankle guards.

 

Pilgrims look for shade

Waiting for the Astorga pilgrims' hostel to be opened

We arrive at Astorga pilgrims’ hostel at quarter to one in the afternoon. There are eight os us waiting for the hostel to open. We know two of the eight pilgrims. The hostel opens at its time (one o’clock p.m.). We stamp our credentials and leave to get lodgings at the Hostal La Peseta. We check our feet and heal our blisters and... bad news : We phone my mother and she says that one of our friends, a doctor, a good and loving person, was operated on, after suddenly discovering he was ill. He is in a critical stage. My mother asks us to keep this man in our minds for the rest of our pilgrimage. We will do it in all honesty and we hope it will serve him.

Town Hall Squeare,  Astorga.

Town Hall of Astorga

We have lunch in the hostal restaurant. After having a siesta we go for a stroll around the town and we see some actors whom we recognize in Astorga. People tell us they are shooting a film of pilgrims. We have dinner in the same place we had lunch, it is expensive but good. We greet Alvaro, from Malaga, who has his dinner at another table.

We cannot help thinking about our friend during the whole day.

Stage 20 Adelante Stage 21