Stage 16

Carrión de los Condes-Terradillo de Templarios

July 24, 1999

To Santiago 405 Kms

(Distance  25 Kms // Time walking 6 hours and 15 minutes)

Carrion, we leave early in the morning...

Fachade of Clarisas nuns' hostel in Carrión.

We leave Clarisas nuns’ hostel at quarter past six in the morning. The pilgrims go through Carrion following the yellow arrows in semi-darkness. Dawn slowly breaks. A group of boys and girls come back home after a Friday night on the town. They shout and gesticulate with the naiveness of those who think they are the first people in the whole world that go to bed at the break of day. They unavoidably shout at pilgrims and mock them. Pilgrims are the only people that, apart from young people, walk along the street at this time. Pilgrims accept « human inclemency » with indifference, their monotonous pace does not change. Youngsters shouting and laughing vanish at once.

Church of Santiago, in Carrión.

Church of Santiago in Carrión, the yellow arrow...

We cross the bridge over Carrion River and, after traipsing a little bit, we arrive at a roundabout in the road. We take the road towards Villotilla. When we walk along this road a kilometre, a car, plenty of noisy young people coming from a night on the razzle, brakes beside us and, when we were ready for the same old thing :

  • « Good luck! Enjoy the Camino! Buen Camino!*»

Paca and I thank the boys, and we are both very happy to find that some young people who stay up all night also have good feelings.

We arrive at the old Roman roadway that goes to Astorga, it leads us towards Calzadilla de la Cueza in a straight line. Our long shadows always go ahead, we try catching them as if we were children.

our shadows always go ahead...

The right Roman roadway to Calzadilla...

We have breakfast in Calzadilla. There, we say good-bye to Pepe, Fernando y Javier. Paca and I are not tired, because our last stages were short, and we want to go further. They remain at the Calzadilla hostel. We give them our address, just in case we do not see them anymore.

When we quit Calzadilla we take a new track from the road. There are only a few signs on the track. Walking along this track keeps us out of the road.

Three beautiful girls in theirs twenties meet us. They look fresh, untired and lively. They say they are from San Sebastian and they are Javieristas*. They tell they are going to Santiago to a congress of young Christian people. We quit them beside Ledigos because Paca and I are going in the village so as to have a snack. After a while, at a crossroads near Terradillos de Templarios, we see to our great amazement how the three Javierista beauties hitchhike a Nissan Patrol of the Guardia Civil*. We think that it is just a joke, but the Benemerita* car stops and the girls speak to the guards. Walking, we overtake all of them. In a few minutes the law and order car overtakes us and the three lasses, very happy, bid us good-bye from the car. Long live the Guardia Civil! Trust Javieristas girls and you will see...

Advertising in Terradillos

...we arrive at Terradillos de Templarios.

We arrive at Terradillos de Templarios. Marisa Perez, the landlady, welcomes us to the pilgrims hostel. It is a private hostel. She is very solicitous to us. The hostel is very familiar and warm. The food is good. What a surprise! The computer works. This is the first one that we see working in the Camino. Marisa tells us that she almost had to fight with the technician to get it. We are not surprised at that, Marisa, the one of Terradillos, is a serious woman. She has her hostel very well organised, she prepares lunches and dinners for those pilgrims who want to have a meal, she attends her small grocery (which is inside the hostal and is also the only one shop in the village), she serves coffees and drinks not only to pilgrims but also to local customers, she looks after her children, she is warm and friendly with people, she tells jokes, she speaks to everyone and, in addition, she is pregnant. The computer technician did not have a chance in hell of leaving the hostel until the computer worked. Of course.

Marisa’s husband helps her but, above all, he likes drinking beer with customers in a relaxed way.

Even though the computer of Terradillos’ hostel, I must say it very clear, it WORKED, I was not able to quit the main page: www.caminonet.com and even though in this page the slowness was amazing. What kind of access did Caja España offer hostels? When I tried to use the mail program I realised it did not have the required software. Well, even though Marisa is not perfect, she did her best.

Marisa Perez’s hostel (the village social center) is almost the only thing to see in Terradillos de Templarios. The rest of village is four houses, a church and a resting area for pilgrims with some benches and a source. A night in the hostel costs 1000 pesetas. There is a double room (it was ours because we arrived early) and other rooms with some beds. Pilgrims’ menu costs 1000 pesetas and if you do not like a course, Marisa makes you something else without charging you for it. This Marisa is a diamond.

In Terradillos we meet up again with known pilgrims. The musician, who once again is courting the French red-haired Yasmine. By the way, she now looks more favorably o the young man’s charms. We meet a Brazilian young woman who travels alone and has her feet « machucados »*, she asks a lot of questions about the Camino and its traditions. We also meet two pilgrims from Galicia, Marisa and her father. Marisa’s father decided to come with her daughter «so as for the girl not to walk the Camino alone». Marisa is thirty years-old and she is a nice and resolute woman. She complains over and over again: « Whatever possessed me to bring my father along?  ». Imagine that.


*Buen Camino!.- The saying pilgrims use to wish each other good luck. People also use this to greet pilgrims.

*Javieristas.- A Catholic religious association.

*Guardia Civil.- Spanish police. They look after roads, ways, rural areas, borders, and traffic...

*Benemérita.- It also means Guardia Civil.

*Machucados.- It is a mistake in Spanish, it means to crush. She had her feet crushed.

Stage 16 Go on! Stage 17