Stage 6

Los Arcos-Logroño

July 14, 1999

To Santiago 640 Kms.

(Distance 28 Kms. // Time walking 6 hours and 30 minutes)

 

It is quarter past six when pilgrims leave the cemetery of Los Arcos and go towards Sansol along a calm plain.

Neither in Sansol nor in Torres del Río is there an open place where we can have breakfast. We, who trusted would have breakfast in the pilgrims’ hostel of this last village, leave it disappointed. Its Romanesque church did not disappoint us. It is wonderful.

Before sighting Viana, the way goes through precipices and all time we go up and down. The partridges sing, we see a hare running and the pilgrims, like ants, go up and go down, go up and go down, go up and go down…

Cornava, old Roman town

Paca at Cornava.

In Cornava, Paca and I, like Roman legionaries, drink some water and take photographs.

We arrive at Viana at ten o’clock a.m.. We have a hearty breakfast at the Bar del Bordón: just cooked Spanish omelette and a glass of wine. The Camino goes through this nice town, we like the town and it makes a good impression on us. People tell us where the pilgrims’ hostel is and they want us to remain here. However, we want to arrive at Logroño today.

On the route from Viana to Logroño a Brazilian walker teaches us about his philosophy of life for a long while, but he suddenly leaves us almost without saying good bye.

A lot of cyclists on the Xacobea cycling tour leave us behind when we are arriving at Logroño. We find a wonderful pair of sun glasses that a cyclist must have lost because of the potholes of the route.

Near Logroño, beside the Camino, there is a house with several fig trees that provide a good deal of shade. Under one of the trees there is a table with a tray plenty of figs, a seal for stamping and a book. An old lady is beside the table. The lady stamps our pilgrim’s passports, ask us to write in her book and gives us figs. Lady Felisa, the one of the figs, advises and invites and, in addition, she informs pilgrims about Logroño. Finally, she stamps their pilgrims’ passports with a lot of authority.

  • "I’m having such a busy days, honey, that I can’t be off for more than a single moment. Most days people don’t allow me to eat. I can’t tell you more!"

Arriving at Logroño is pleasant and fast. We cross the Ebro river and immediately we are in the old town. We arrive at quarter to one p.m.. We stamp our credentials at the hostel and go for a room in Hostal Sebastián.

The Camino goes through Logroño...

The Camino goes through Logroño along its old streets...

The pilgrims’ hostel is still closed and the cleaning women stamp our credentials, but, before putting the seal on our pilgrim’s passport they ask us a lot of personal questions. Spanish people are like this !

What are they laughing at?

Saints smile to pilgrims when they go through Logroño.

We have a meal in a cheap restaurant on San Juan Street. We come across other pilgrims, they are colleagues, that spent the night before in Torres del Río. They do not speak very well about the pilgrims’ hostel or the person in charge… However, they speak very well about Logroño’s hostel and people in charge of it. They say that its computer works, even though Internet does not and they say that all the computers in hostels, from Burgos onwards, are working properly. At least, so they say.

Stage 6 Go on! Stage 7